Disclaimer: The information herein provided is for general information only. Any health or safety related issues should be further researched, and the advice requested of a properly qualified professional. DIY COSMETICS L.L.C. and its owners cannot be held responsible for, and will not be liable for the inaccuracy or application of any information whatsoever herein provided.
MAKING FOUNDATIONS
I found making foundations the biggest challenge in color cosmetics. Most foundations are made from yellow, red and black oxide. Finding the right combination can be time consuming, messy and tedious. I have tried over 250 combinations to come up with the pigments blends I offer. As I went along I took notes on what not to do and what is good to do so I could make this experience rewarding and simple for you. I have made a blending chart for you that involve 7 different pigments that can be blended to make any skin tone you need. Use our chart and proportions to match your own skin tone or that of anyone you know. Your foundation should match your skin tone EXACTLY. Do not try and make a foundation to correct skin tone. This can be done with blushes and powders.
Blending your own powders is pretty simple in theory. Before we talk about mixing the powders I would like to go over some basic differences in the types of products you might want to make and how they differ. We will use several terms to describe the different powders and formulas.
Translucent: These powders are “see through”. They provide you skin with color and radiance but will not cover up flaws.
Opaque: These provide good coverage and you barely see through them or they can provide complete coverage depending on how much titanium is in the product and what type of fillers have been used.
Matte: this has a flat low luster appearance.
High Luster: these products have a pearl appearance and will tend to reflect the light.
Oil Absorption: Fillers and pigments should preferably not absorb oil. When powders absorb oil they tend to collect in wrinkles and skin folds.
Particle Size: The particle size of the pearl pigment will either give you high luster low hiding powder or low luster and good hiding power. The smaller the particle size the lower the luster and higher the hiding power.
Dispersability: This is the ease with which you may mix pigments into products. Pearl Mica Pigments tend to be easy to disperse. The matte pigments tend to be difficult to disperse without special equipment.
DETERMINING THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF COLORS FOR YOUR SKIN TONE
This is really not as difficult as it may seem. All skin tones may be achieved my mixing three basic colors together: Red, Black and Yellow. A neutral tone would be considered equal parts of red and yellow (brown) with some black to make it darker or white to make it lighter. You may also start with tan or brown oxide and make adjustments with the red, black and yellow. Your foundation should make your skin look as smooth and clear as possible , provide coverage and even out tone. You should always match your skin tone as closely as possible. Do no try to adjust your skin tone by using a different color foundation that does not match your skin tone. If you have a color that you have bought that you like, have it with you when blending so you can match it.
TYPES OF FOUNDATION
Cake Foundation: This is somewhere between a pressed powder and liquid foundation. They are pressed blocks of color with a powder element and a wax-oil element. They are good for all skin types and may be applied with a damp or dry sponge. Generally they provide good coverage. They can also help keep the skin moisturized.
Face Powders: Powders add a finishing touch to your foundation and help it keep it looking fresh throughout the day. For a more natural looking effect they may be used on their own. Different shades of powder may also be used to “correct” complexions. For example a powder with a greenish tone helps correct redness.
Pressed Face Powders: Pressed face powders are easier to carry and less messy to use. They can also provide a convenient way of touching up your makeup throughout the day.
Cream to Powder Cake Make-up: This is essentially a cake foundation with powder in it.
Liquid: Basically pigments in a lotion type base.
GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS
PIGMENTS: For foundations and in our kit we have 6 different base pigments that are made from oxides. There are two brown pigments, 1 tan, yellow, red and black. These are all blends of black, brown and yellow that we have formulated for you. If you don’t want to use the blends we have provided some simple starting formulas that you can use with the red, black and yellow oxides. Remember what I said before though that I have blended at least 250 blends to get to where I am at with our pigment blends. Be patient when you are making your own blends. Take good notes and don’t throw the ones that don’t work away. You may be able to use them later. By blending these pigments you can match any skin tone. If you are using our blends we provide a color chart and mixing instructions with our foundation kit.
BLENDING BASES: With our special blending bases you can easily mix all our pigments with just a spatula and a piece of wax paper.
Extender W: This base is a matte white pigment base composed of Mica that is less than 20µm coated with colloidal (has properties between those of a solution and fine suspension) titanium dioxide. It has light reflection properties in addition to light diffusion properties. Unlike conventional titanium dioxide it is easily dispersible and easily mixes with the pigments. It has good adhesion and a soft skin feel. Use this blender base for a Matte look with good coverage and hiding power. Recommended usage rate in the total formula is between 5-10%.
Light Diffusing Powder: This light diffusing powder consists of spherical particles that create a noticeably softer smoother and more velvety skin feel. Due to the unique light diffusing properties the skin immediately appears smoother and more natural. The special coating increases the amount of diffuse reflected light from inside of wrinkles which lead to a more even looking skin tone. Additionally it creates a special glide and roll effect on the skin and is able to reduce the gloss of the skin. Recommended usage rates are 3-10% in liquid foundations and up to 20% in pressed powders and loose powders. Silica spheres, titanium dioxide and iron oxide.
FILLERS: Even though these are called fillers they have important functions. These are generally powders such as talc (we have substituted talc with purified tapioca powder) that are blended with the pigments. They can be matte powders or translucent powders. Not only do they add bulk to the product but they are anti-caking and provide a smooth texture. One does not want to spread just pigments and bases straight on to the skin. They would in general be too dark, hard to spread, and get absorbed into the creases.
Ultra Fine Mica: This is a pure mica that is under 15µm. It is a matte fluffy powder that has excellent anti-caking qualities and does not absorb grease. As functional filler it may be used in powders for 10-40% of the total formula. It improves the binding effects of powders and also has anti-caking properties. It adds a satin sheen versus a pearling effect to products. In lipsticks it may be added to cut greasiness at rates up to 6% of the total formula. This is also sometimes called Serecite.
Tapioca Powder: This is a highly purified native starch made from Tapioca. It’s whiteness and high purity gives is a broad range of applications in cosmetics and is an excellent talc replacement in powders and emulsions. It imparts a smooth soft feel to your formulations. This may be used as the primary filler.
BINDERS: Binders are used for pressed powders. They are general used at about 10% and blended into the powder. The powder is then pressed hard into their containers. Pressed powders are a great way to enjoy both opaque and translucent powders without the side effects of long term inhalation of loose powder.
Liquid Binder: Caprylic Capric Triglyceride, Clear Cosmetic Grade Jojoba Oil and Dimethicone. as It is light, and holds the powders together well and improves slip.
Pre-Blended Powder Base with Binder: This is a new proprietary product we have put together to make it incredibly easy to make pressed powder blushes and eyeshadows. All you need to do is mix your colors in and your a re ready to start pressing.
LET’S GET STARTED!
CLEANLINESS: Make sure your workspace has been cleaned before you start. Wipe down counters and remove any other items on the counter from the area where you are working. I suggest covering your counter with butcher paper or newspaper so the pigments do not get onto the counter and stain it. Additionally I usually put newspaper on the floor below. Some of the powders are very light and fluffy and easily get into the air and surround. Your utensils need to be clean but sterility is not necessary.
SAFETY: Wear the mask that (we provide one in our foundation kit) when you are blending your pigments to reduce the chance of inhaling the powders and particles. I recommend wearing the gloves also, so your fingers do not get stained.
TOOLS YOU WILL NEED
Blending paper: you need a paper that will not absorb the pigments or stick to the pigments. Also a white background is helpful so that you can see the true color.
2 scoops, 1 large and 1 small (all our formulas are based on using these scoops).
Flat Spatula
Pigments
Blending Powder
Measuring spoons
Mask
Gloves
Small empty containers
Blending Equipment (optional)
(note: we have put together a cost effective kit for you with all these in them is you wish to purchase them all together)
It is always most precise to use a scale when measuring out ingredients. Scales that measure in 0.1 grams can be pricy and you most likely don’t own one. For this reason we have weighed our ingredients and converted them to scoops and teaspoon-tablespoons for you. If you every seriously get into making color cosmetics I recommend you purchase one.
You will hear many different recommendations on blending equipment. I am going to teach you to blend small amounts by hand. I ALWAYS recommend you blend the pigment with the blending powder by hand. This is the only way you are assured that there is NO streaking in the powder. The blending powder will make the pigment much easier to mix with the rest of the formula.
If you have one of our little hand blenders you can skip all the steps that involve blending by hand.
Handblender
The first thing I recommend is to mix up your base pigments to match your skin tone. You will mix up more than you need and then you can store this and have it ready when you want to make up more foundation or powder. Pick your skin tone and then start with mixing the pigments for that base.
Select the blend that you think will suit you best from our sample chart. Measure out your pigments using the large and small scoops as needed. Measure out equal parts of blending powder.
Start compounding the powders using the cutting edges of the spatula. Keep scooping into a mound and cutting, first in one direction and then another
Your powders will then begin to appear as though they are blending but you are not even close yet!
Turn your spatula to the flat side and start blending in the same manner as you might ice a cake. Keep scooping into a mound and then smooth out again.
As you press down on the powder you will see the colors streaking. You want to continue this process until the is absolutely no streaking. This is one of the most important parts of the process. Take you time, and work in an area where the light is good.
When your pigment base is completely blended you are now ready to add them to the rest of the powder base. You can use a blender for this if you have one, otherwise you will need to do this by hand. A whisk would be helpful.
It is not necessary but you can add binder also if like a less loose powder
Turn the blender on for up to 60 seconds and you are now finished.
Put the loose powder into your pot and enjoy your own handmade mineral powder for a fraction of what is would have cost you to buy.
Choose a tone from our skin tone chart that best fits your complextion to get you started.
If you would like to blend your own colors from scratch here are a few basic starting points for you. One method might be to start with equal amounts for Red and Yellow Oxide. You most likely will want to keep adding Yellow to you get to a skin tone that is close to the shade you are after (take notes!) If you want to darken the tone add small scoops of black one at a time, if you want to lighten it add a bit more blender base or titanium.
Here are some simple formulas:
Honey Beige: Yellow 1 large scoop, Red 3 small scoops, Black 1 small scoop
Golden Bronze: Yellow 1 large scooop, red 1 small scoop, black 1 small scoop
Warm Beige: Equal parts Red and Yellow
Warm Bronze: Yellow 1 large scoop, Red 1 large scoop, Black 2 small scoops.
PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THESE ARE STARTING GUIDELINES FOR YOU AND YOU WILL NEED TO EXPERIMENT AND PRACTICE ON YOUR OWN FOR OPTIMIM RESULTS.
Here are some very basic starter recipes for you. The variations and ingredients you can use have very many variations but you can start here. If you want to use straight titanium rather than the Extender W, use 1/2 the amount of titanium and make the rest up with tapioca powder.
POWDER FOUNDATION TRANSLUCENT #1:This is a light matte translucent blend.
| Ingredient | in grams | by volume |
| Extender W | 9 | 2 Teaspoons |
| Pigments | 1.8 | 2 large scoops and 2 small scoop |
| Tapioca Flour | 16.2 | 5 Teaspoons |
| Magnesium Stearate | 3 | 1/2 teaspoon plus 2 small scoops |
| Total grams | 30 | |
POWDER FOUNDATION TRANSLUCENT #2:This is a light matte translucent blend.
| Ingredient | in grams | by volume |
| Extender W | 9 | 2 Teaspoons |
| Pigments | 1.5 | 2 large scoops |
| Tapioca Flour | 6 | 2 Teaspoons |
| Magnesium Stearate | 1.5 | 1/2 teaspoon plus 2 small scoops |
| Ultra Fine Mica | 12 | 6 Teaspoons |
| | 30 | |
MATTE POWDER WITH EXTRA SUN PROTECTION
This foundation has an approximate spf of 15-20 good coverage and a matte appearance.
| Ingredient | in grams | by volume |
| Extender W | 3 | 1/2 Teaspoon plus 1 large scoop |
| Pigments | 2 | 2 large scoops |
| Tapioca Flour | 7 | 2 teaspoons plus 1 large scoop |
| Magnesium Stearate | 3 | 1/2 teaspoon plus 2 small scoops |
| Ultra Fine Mica | 12 | 6 Teaspoons |
| Micronized Zinc | 3 | 1 Teasoon |
| | 30 | |
