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Disclaimer: The information herein provided is for general information only. Any health or safety related issues should be further researched, and the advice requested of a properly qualified professional. DIY COSMETICS L.L.C. and its owners cannot be held responsible for, and will not be liable for the inaccuracy or application of any information whatsoever herein provided.
MAKING FOUNDATIONS
Making foundations need not be challenging. Most foundations are made from yellow, red and black oxide. As well as the three basic colors we have two blending colors we use for further ease, Tan and Brown. Finding the right combination can be time consuming, messy and tedious. I have tried over 250 combinations to come up with the pigments blends I am going to display for you. As I went along I took notes on what not to do. I have made a blending chart for you that involve 7 different pigments that may be blended to make any skin tone you need. Use our chart and proportions to match your own skin tone or that of anyone you know. Your foundation should match your skin tone EXACTLY. Do not try and make a foundation to correct skin tone. This can be done with blushes and powders.
Blending your own powders is pretty simple in theory. Before we talk about mixing the powders I would like to go over some basic differences in the types of products you might want to make and how they differ. We will use several terms to describe the different powders and formulas.
Translucent: These powders are “see through”. They provide you skin with color and radiance but will not cover up flaws.
Opaque: These provide good coverage and you barely see through them or they can provide complete coverage depending on how much titanium is in the product and what type of fillers have been used.
Matte: this has a flat low luster appearance.
High Luster: these products have a pearl appearance and will tend to reflect the light.
Oil Absorption: Fillers and pigments should preferably not absorb oil. When powders absorb oil they tend to collect in wrinkles and skin folds. The powders we use in our bases are specially modified to absorb oil without caking.
Particle Size: The particle size of the pearl pigment will either give you high luster low hiding powder or low luster and good hiding power. The smaller the particle size the lower the luster and higher the hiding power. Our bases are made with low luster serecite as high luster tends to make wrinkles and flaws more noticable.
Dispersability: This is the ease with which you may mix pigments into products. Pearl Mica Pigments tend to be easy to disperse. The matte pigments tend to be difficult to disperse without special equipment.
DETERMINING THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF COLORS FOR YOUR SKIN TONE
This is really not as difficult as it may seem. All skin tones may be achieved my mixing three basic colors together: Red, Black and Yellow. A neutral tone would be considered equal parts of red and yellow (brown or medium beige when blended with fillers) with some black to make it darker or white to make it lighter. You may also start with tan or brown oxide and make adjustments with the red, black and yellow. Your foundation should make your skin look as smooth and clear as possible , provide coverage and even out tone. You should always match your skin tone as closely as possible. Do no try to adjust your skin tone by using a different color foundation that does not match your skin tone. If you have a color that you have bought that you like, have it with you when blending so you can match it.
TYPES OF FOUNDATION
Cake Foundation or Pressed Powder: This is somewhere between a pressed powder and liquid foundation. They are pressed blocks of color with a powder element and a wax-oil element. They are good for all skin types and may be applied with a damp or dry sponge. Generally they provide good coverage. They can also help keep the skin moisturized.
Face Powders: Powders add a finishing touch to your foundation and help it keep it looking fresh throughout the day. For a more natural looking effect they may be used on their own. Different shades of powder may also be used to “correct” complexions. For example a powder with a greenish tone helps correct redness.
Cream to Powder Cake Make-up: This is essentially a cake foundation with powder in it. It tends to feel creamy and emollient without having oil in it. They are quite popular and simple to use.
Liquid: Basically pigments in a lotion type base.
GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS
PIGMENTS: I have used 5 different base pigments that are made from oxides. There are brown, tan, yellow, red and black.
BLENDING BASES: We sell pre-made bases that you may add your pigments too. We have a loose powder base , a pressed powder base and cream to powder base . They come in both translucent and with added zinc or titanium. My test blend photos were made with the loose translucent powder blend. A small adjustment in pigments may be needed for the opaque blends.
Light Diffusing Powder: All our blends contain a light diffusing powder which consists of spherical particles that create a noticeably softer smoother and more velvety skin feel. Due to the unique light diffusing properties the skin immediately appears smoother and more natural. The special coating increases the amount of diffuse reflected light from inside of wrinkles which lead to a more even looking skin tone. Additionally it creates a special glide and roll effect on the skin and is able to reduce the gloss of the skin.
FILLERS: Even though these are called fillers they have important functions. These are generally powders such as talc (we have substituted talc with purified corn flour) that are blended with the pigments. They can be matte powders or translucent powders. Not only do they add bulk to the product but they are anti-caking and provide a smooth texture. One does not want to spread just pigments and bases straight on to the skin. They would in general be too dark, hard to spread, and get absorbed into the creases.
Serecite: This is a pure mica that is between 10-60 microns. It is a matte fluffy powder that has excellent anti-caking qualities and does not absorb grease. It improves the binding effects of powders and also has anti-caking properties. It adds a satin sheen versus a pearling effect to products.
BINDERS: Binders are used for pressed powders. They are general used at about 10% and blended into the powder. The powder is then pressed hard into their containers. Pressed powders are a great way to enjoy both opaque and translucent powders without the side effects of long term inhalation of loose powder.
Instructions
Cleanliness is a must: Make sure your workspace has been cleaned before you start. Wipe down counters and remove any other items on the counter from the area where you are working. I suggest covering your counter with butcher paper or newspaper so the pigments do not get onto the counter and stain it. Additionally I usually put newspaper on the floor below. Some of the powders are very light and fluffy and easily get into the air and surround. Your utensils need to be clean but sterility is not necessary.
Safety: Wear a mask when you are blending your pigments to reduce the chance of inhaling the powders and particles. I recommend wearing the gloves also, so your fingers do not get stained.
Tools
Blending paper: you need a paper that will not absorb the pigments or stick to the pigments. Also a white background is helpful so that you can see the true color.
2 scoops, 1 large and 1 small (all our formulas are based on using these scoops).
Flat Spatula
Pigments
Blending Powder
Measuring spoons
Mask
Gloves
Small empty containers
Blending Equipment (optional)
(note: we have put together a cost effective kit for you with all these in them is you wish to purchase them all together)
It is always most precise to use a scale when measuring out ingredients. Scales that measure in 0.1 grams can be pricy and you most likely don’t own one. We do supply a scale for a reasonable price that weighs as little as 0.1 or 1/10th of a gram.
You will hear many different recommendations on blending equipment. I am going to teach you to blend small amounts by hand. I ALWAYS recommend you blend the pigment with the blending powder by hand. This is the only way you are assured that there is NO streaking in the powder. The blending powder will make the pigment much easier to mix with the rest of the formula.
Here are some handy tools that will help you skip some steps for easier melting of solid bases and powder blenidng.
Handblender Battery Operated Manual Hand Mixer Melter
The first thing I recommend is to mix up your base pigments to match your skin tone. You will mix up more than you need and then you can store this and have it ready when you want to make up more foundation or powder. Pick your skin tone and then start with mixing the pigments for that base.
Select the blend that you think will suit you best from our sample chart. Measure out your pigments using the large and small scoops as needed. Measure out equal parts of blending powder. 
Start compounding the powders using the cutting edges of the spatula. Keep scooping into a mound and cutting, first in one direction and then another 
Your powders will then begin to appear as though they are blending but you are not even close yet!
Turn your spatula to the flat side and start blending in the same manner as you might ice a cake. Keep scooping into a mound and then smooth out again. 
As you press down on the powder you will see the colors streaking. You want to continue this process until the is absolutely no streaking. This is one of the most important parts of the process. Take you time, and work in an area where the light is good.
When your pigment base is completely blended you are now ready to add them to the rest of the powder base. You can use a blender for this if you have one, otherwise you will need to do this by hand. A whisk would be helpful. 
It is not necessary but you can add binder also if like a less loose powder 
Turn the blender on for up to 60 seconds and you are now finished.
Put the loose powder into your pot and enjoy your own handmade mineral powder for a fraction of what is would have cost you to buy.
For eyeshadows, blushes and bronzers you may mix you base with about 20% Mica Pigments. These will have a "pearlescent" look to them and add sparkle. I have mixed 3 colors below as an example. Each mix has 5 grams of Base Powder and one gram of Mica. Micas are very light and 1 gram may seem like quite a bit. They are very translucent and the colors are much softer than pure pigments.
Base with Mica 20%
   Bronze Bordeaux Aborigine
Color Correctors are simple to make and may be used with the same base. Here are examples of three of the most commonly used ones.
  
Purple Green Salmon
Foundations     
Beige Sable Brown Soft Sable Brown Warm Beige Creamy Beige    
Ivory Soft Honey Tan Tawny
Sable Brown: 5 grams Base Powder with 1 large level scoop/0.3 grams Brown Oxide
Soft Sable Brown: 5 grams of Base with 1 large level scoop/0.3 grams Soft Brown Oxide Beige: 5 grams of Base with 1small scoop/0.1 grams Brown Oxide Warm Beige: 5 grams of base with 1/2 small scoop Brown Oxide, 1/2 small scoop Red Oxide,1 small scoop of Yellow Oxide/total 0.2 grams Creamy Beige: 5 grams of Base with 1 small scoop of Tan Oxide and 1 small scoop of Brown Oxide/total 0.2 grams Ivory: 5 grams of Base with 3 small scoops of Soft Yellow Oxide, 3 small scoops of Soft Brown Oxide/0.6 grams Soft Honey : 5 grams of Base plus 1 small scoop of brown oxide and 1 small scoop of yellow oxide /0.2 grams Tan: 5 grams of Base with 2 small scoops of Tan Oxide/0.2 grams Tawny: 5 gams of Base with 1 small scoop of Brown Oxide and 2 small scoops of Soft Yellow Oxide
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