DIY Cosmetics LLC

Naturajel™ 

INCI Sclerotium Gum
CAS Number 39464-87-6
Green Code: 4
Naturajel ™ is an s product of Sclerotium rolfsii, a microorganism made
to ferment in a rich-in-glucose medium. The culture medium is then filtered
and the residue is dried. After washing in alcohol, the product obtained is again
dissolved, filtered, dried and granulated.

Recipes Using this product 

Naturajel ™   may be used to create clear thick gels and is an excellent replacement for carbomers and gums such as Xanthan gum. It is stronger that Xanthan and even stronger the Carbomer. It is not affected by extreme heat, cold, acid, alkalis or high speed mixing. It is 100% plant derived and natural and may be used at very low levels which makes it a cost effective base. Typical formulation guidelines are: 
Gels: 0.8-1.2%
Thickening an emulsion 0.5-1.5%
Obtaining a sprayable suspension: 0.5%
Applications of extreme conditions: 1.0-2.0%


Although Naturajel ™ is not technically an emulsifier it may be use to make “emulsifier free” creams and lotions. It is able to do this because of its capability to create a network around the oil particles so there is no separation or de-phasing. Studies found that at 1% Naturajel ™ was able to absorb 10% oil without separation and at 2%- 20% oil without separation.

Naturajel ™  is able to suspend pigments and glitters with very low usage rates. For the suspension of pigments you would have to use 2% Xanthan gum to stabilize glitter in a gel whereas Naturajel ™  is able to do this at levels as low as 0.5%.

Naturajel ™  is a homopolysaccharide containing glucose as its only monomer. 
The molecule is non-ionic and its chemical interactions with other molecules are 
due to this solidity.  The aqueous solutions are quite resistant to ageing. They also have an exceptional characteristic: that remains stable in the most extreme physical and chemical conditions.

Directions
1 - Sprinkle the Naturajel ™   granules of directly into the water at a temperature of 20°C or more. Note that the warmer the water the more quickly the gum with gel. At 20°C is could take up to 15-45 minutes with mixing.
2 - Shake until the granules completely dissolve (as long as necessary depending on the kind of apparatus used). Tests reveal the emulsifier rotor/stator (hand mixer or stick blender ) is by far the most efficient and therefore the most recommended. 

Formulating with Naturajel ™  
At the stage where Naturajel ™  is completely dissolved the other ingredients in the formula should be added (oilyphase, actives, etc.). It will then take 24 hours to obtain a stable viscosity.
Notice that heating the water speeds up the gelling of Naturajel ™  .

Viscosity of an Naturajel ™  gel according to temperature of water
The use of 0.25 to 2.0% Naturajel provides viscosity of 60 to 12,000cps. We can thus create more or less a supple, more or less fluid textures, depending on the final product you wish to obtain.  From 0.8%,the aqueous preparations obtained form a solid gel.

Stability of the Naturajel ™  
in Extreme Physical and Chemical Conditions formulating with gelling agents always creates stabilizing issues for the product when in contactwith certain raw materials (electrolytes, alcohol, etc.) or in extreme pH conditions. Most of the other gelling agents present a good stability towards some of these parameters, however Naturajel  has the quality of being stable in all situations. This has been proven by viscosity measurements carried out on gels made in typical conditions with 1.0% Naturajel ™  later adding the various elements to be studied (salt, ethanol, etc.).

Presence of Ethanol
The gel remains very stable until it reaches a concentration of 15% ethanol. The gelling ability decreases for greater quantities. Formulating alcoholic products is thus possible, however Naturajel ™   must first be sprinkled into water, and the alcohol should be added once the Amigel® network is formed.

Presence of Propylene Glycol
In the presence of 1 to 25% propylene glycol, the gel presents high stability.

Presence of Salts
Tests have been carried out for a concentration in NaCl of 1 to 12%. Strong stability can benoticed on the whole range of concentrations. This characteristic makes manufacturing finished products containing seawater possible.

pH
Viscosity measurements were taken for pHs varying between 2 and 11. Noted was a high stability rate, even for extreme pH. These results are exceptional for a gelling agent.

Presence of Essential Oils
Essential oils are extremely concentrated products which should be integrated into the formulas in small quantities. Otherwise, they can destabilize the finished products. Naturajel ™  was tested with different concentrations containing 0.05% to 4.0% Lavender essential oil, without a solubilizer. Up to 3.0% of Lavender essential oil can be stably incorporated into Naturajel ™. This is a very high dosage for a finished cosmetic product.